Well, my journey to Likoma island was for sure an adventure as any form of transportation is in Malawi.

The ferry was once again 14 hours late but because they take a 9 hour break in Chilumba everybody thought that the ferry would be about 6 hours late maximum. The ferry was supposed to arrive in Usisya at 10:30am so we thought that around 5pm it would be there but we waited and waited and waited. By 8pm the guys from the lodge took me to the beach to wait for the Ilala because it was dark and they could not see the ilala come because of all the lights from the fishermen. I walked to the beach and sat with Maggie and her family who had been waiting at the beach since 4pm. I got there and she said that she had sent her cousin Gift to get some food and an hour or so later she arrived with food and they shared nsima and fish with me… God bless them, they are so kind!

I think there were at least one hundred to two hundred people at the beach, some people getting on the ilala, some waiting for people, some with cargo, and the majority was family just waiting with their loved one. With us we had 5 members of Maggie’s family, her neighbor and her kid plus me and the guy whom I met the first day with another of his friend!

The Ilala finally made its appearance at 11:30pm. 

Getting on the mini boat to take us to the Ilala was crazy, absolutely everybody wanted to get on so people were throwing things in, pushing each other, climbing into it so I just had to do what the locals do! Maggie got on and I followed; my friend tossed my bag in and then he just grabbed me by the waist and pushed me up into the boat! It was hilarious!

We made it to the Ilala, met with two of Maggie’s cousins coming from Ruarwe and set ourselves outside since it was more comfortable than inside with so many people. Once outside there were two truck tires so I pulled one closer to the girls, put my backpack inside the hole, and made a little bed. At 12:42am (yes, I was looking at my watch) the Ilala started moving… direction: Nhkata Bay! 

We thought that it would take double the time to reach Nhkata bay than normal because of engine problems with the Ilala but at 3:42am we had arrived! Finally!

A voice on the speaker starter to give directions in chichewa and I didn’t understand anything but Maggie translated and said that one of the engines in one of the boats was broken and that they would be taking care of that first and then start unloading people and cargo so we sat there for a while. At around 5am we had gotten off of the Ilala and I met with a guy from Zhulunkuni lodge that would take me to the ATM to get some money to pay my bill. 

Long story short, the ATM ate my 80,000 kwachas ($110) and I started to freak out because it gave me a receipt as if the money had come out. Thankfully an employee was just walking in at 6:15am despite his 8am starting time! I gave him all my details and hurried back to the Ilala to get to Likoma Island.

The workers at the Ilala had said that I had time and that the Ilala was going to leave around 8 or 9am so I couldn't wait for the bank to open at 8am. 

I put some credit on my phone and while walking back to the Ilala I was not paying attention (because after a week I could finally check my email, facebook, and instagram) and I felt down, I felt so stupid! My first thought was “Please please let my phone be ok” and it was, but I had a bloody knee and dirt all over me! haha so embarrassing!

 I arrived at the port and it was an incredible mess. Waited for a couple of hours, and by 9:30am I paid 100kwachas to a local boat to row me to the Ilala since the official Ilala boat was always super packed and almost impossible to get on it. 

I got into the Ilala and it was PACKED! I walked to the second class and it was so busy that I had a hard time finding a place to stand so after half an hour or so I had made some local friends to take care of my bag and went to sit on the second floor. It took another couple of hours for the Ilala to finish all the loading and finally at around 1pm we left in direction to Chizumulu island!! 

The Ilala is so disorganized, I could have waited and resolved my ATM fiasco right there… I hate the Ilala!

As I was sitting on the second floor among the locals a guy, Yan, wearing a t-shirt from the lodge that I had booked approached me and said he would take care of me and make sure everything went ok when we arrived in Likoma. 

I sat on the second floor for a couple of hours and then decided to go for a walk in the crowded Ilala. I decided to go down to the economy and second class and I could barely believe my eyes! The Ilala was so packed I couldn’t even walk, I had to climb through sacks of produce (mostly potatoes), sacks of clothes and goods, and God knows what else. I really felt like I was desperately trying to get out of the Titanic in the middle of the main craziness. In order to move through the boat I had to hold on to the bars on the roof of the Ilala, holding tight and at times swinging my body from place to place. I had to jump over people, making sure I wouldn’t step on some of the kids sleeping on the floor between the many bags. The people down there were crammed and it was hot, it is unbelievable to see how the people from the Ilala are ok with it being so chaotic and so uncomfortable for their passengers.

After much jumping and acrobatics I made it to the dinning area of the economy class and I couldn’t stomach the menu so I decided to go back. I walked to where my backpack was and chit chatted again with my new friend who had not moved from the seat he got in 2nd class 8 hours ago. We talked about how crazy the Ilala was and then I decided to go back up. This time I decided to take Yan’s advice and go up to the top to the first class where all the Mzungus were and OMG, what a difference! The roof top of the boat was calm, not crowded, had a bar and it was great; now I really felt like I was in the rich part of the Titanic!

Earlier when I was sleeping on the floor the guys who sell tickets came over and woke me up, one of them told me that because the boat was so crowded they would charge me for economy class although I was in first. I looked at them puzzled and said “This is first class? Me sitting on the floor with everybody else is first class?” we were literally on the floor crammed by the cabins, and he looked at me and said “Yes!” I paid my 3,500 Kwachas and went back to sleep until I went for my walk.

I spent the last 4 hours of my Ilala trip sitting with the tourists and talking to Yan. I talked about transportation in Malawi and how I thought some investors should come and help with some more boats, faster ferries, and docks; I shared my opinion about how locals throw garbage to the lake and how that might impact the wellbeing of the lake in the local communities. We talked about traveling and he taught me a little bit of Chichewa since I no longer was in the Tombuka speaking part of Malawi. At one point I bought some Malawian donuts and shared with 2 local girls who had made it to the top deck; they helped me improved my Chichewa by quizzing me and pushing me to say “Diluse nao, Muriwangi” (Excuse me, how are you?) to locals passing by. Most locals stopped and said “Diriwino guy” (Good, and you?) and I had to respond “diriwino” it was so cool!

At around 9pm we finally arrived in Likoma and Yan asked me to go down closer to the exit so we could quickly get out. I pushed myself through people, went to grab my backpack and magically I made it into the first boat out of the Ilala.

We reached the shore and the boat left us so far from the shore that I would have gotten water probably up to my chest if I jumped out. Yan told me that I could get a piggy back ride from a local for 100 Kwachas! He went first and got a piggy back ride but I thought I would rather jump and get wet but then I looked at the water and decided to go with the piggy back ride as well! haha

It felt so weird being on a strangers shoulders and once he dropped me off he wanted one thousand kwachas! I said no, then he said 500, I said no, then 200, I said “You already got me here and the price is 100” gave him the money and walked away.

Yan (and the lodge manager when I booked) had said that I would get a free transfer to the lodge and that we needed to wait for it. After 30 minutes no ride yet but I was on my phone trying to deal with the ATM thing and emailing my bank etc so I didn't mind the wait. 

It turned out that no ride ever came for me so they said that I should walk 45 minutes in the dark on a dirt and rock road all the way to the lodge, I said that I would only do it if they carried my bag. I was tired, I had slept less than 4 hours in the last 2 days waiting for the Ilala, I had not eaten proper food since 8:30am so I was tired and annoyed at the situation. I walked slowly, my head was spinning and I had to reach my bag of nuts to get me some energy to make it to the lodge. Yan told me the guy carrying my backpack said I should hurry… Hangry Andrea was not happy, I told the guy he could go ahead and walk fast but that I was tired and I shouldn’t even be walking and that I was not going to go faster! Yan grabbed me by the wrist and walked beside me. The holding felt uncomfortable so I said I was hot and needed to get my jacket off and he let go. Then we took a shortcut, and by a shortcut I mean going down a steep hill in a small rocky pack that is not meant for a clumsy mzungu wearing flip flops!

I was so annoyed!

We finally made it to the Mango drift, checked in and got into the dorm. The worker said I was the only guest so I locked the dorm and took a shower. As I got off the shower Yan knocked on the door and I had to open it wearing a towel and he said he needed a bed. I was confused as to why a staff member would sleep in the dorm with me, it really threw me off guard because the staff member didn’t mention anything. I went back into the shower and put my pajamas on and then went to my bed. Yan was on a bed across the room and started saying how beautiful I was and how my mom must be beautiful too, he said that he would miss me when he leaves tomorrow but that he would be back the day after… I thought it was so creepy! I said “maybe I won’t see you” and tried to disengage from an uncomfortable conversation. He then said that we could go together to mzuzu if I got on the boat with him in saturday and kept pushing for me to stay longer in Malawi.

I can’t help but wonder what I am doing wrong in order to attract this kind of situations? I have given zero vibes that I was interested but I wonder that if being friendly with people translates into “I am into you” and that opens the door for a flirtatious exchange. Or is it part of the Malawian culture to be overly friendly (to the point of freaky) with tourist? Or is it that I am too uptight about these kind of things and I should just relax a bit?

The next night I talked to the manager and voiced my concerns from not having a transport when they had told me I would, to being hurried on the walk, to Yan being flirtatious and making me feel uncomfortable when I was the only one in the dorm with him. The following morning the manager approached me and said that he had talked to the staff and that Yan was coming back that day so that he put me in a private chalet for the rest of my stay!

Let me just say that the next two days were pretty weird when Yan was hanging around the 4 tourists (myself included) at the lodge, sitting during dinner with me and not even making eye contact. I felt bad for the guy, I really did! But at the same time I felt like I had to say something, I couldn’t keep quiet about being uncomfortable with somebody who represents the lodge (who, btw, is not an actual staff, he only gets a commission from bringing in guests from the ferry), and only by speaking out I would make sure that next time he gets a solo female traveler he is more respectful and aware of his behavior.

Yan drama aside my time in Likoma was lovely!

The lodge was very nice, the common area was perfect for me to sit down and catch up on writing and relaxing. 

Nathan pretending to play Bao!

The only problem was the food, it was very expensive for a backpacker budget and the two times I actually ordered food I felt ripped off. The good thing was that I had to push myself to get out and walk to town in order to get food. My first day I left after breakfast and walked for about 45min to an hour to town.

$6 dinner at the lodge ($7.50 with some fried chicken)

$0.70 lunch at the local restaurant

During my many walks I met many locals and greeted them in Chichewa. The nice thing about Malawi is that everybody speaks at least a little bit on english so it is always easy to communicate.

My first day in town I stopped at a chips and egg stand and ordered a plate of food. Next to the stand was a Bad board so I asked a local if he wanted to play. Many men were surrounding us watching us play, I even got my food delivered where I was seating. I played one game for about 30-40 minutes and even though I lost I did play a good game.

Likoma town

An Alliance I don't want anybody to be part of!

I also visited the one and only church in town that actually looks more like a castle.

I loved walking the streets of Likoma, people were friendly, children were so cute although once upon a time a stupid tourist decided to come to the island with balloons and give one to all the children so now you are greeted by all children saying: “Hello, balloony?” So annoying! 

Plus, why baloons? That makes zero sense! They don’t last (even less so in a dry place like likoma where when the balloon touches the ground it pops!), they are terrible for the environment, terrible if a young kid puts it in the mouth and swallows it, and even worst… it will end up in the lake with all the other trash and endanger the fish! Why can’t people just not give anything?!? Is it because “we” have white guilt? And we feel the need to give to those who don’t have as much? but… what will giving a balloon to a child do? Nothing, absolutely nothing! Help a community by buying at the local shop or on the street, eat at the restaurant in main town instead of the lodge, play soccer with the kids, try to create memories that will last longer instead of giving something material.

I really enjoyed sitting by the harbor where the Ilala dropped me off and watching people live their life. There were women taking baths, kids playing on the boats and swimming, lots of adults drying fish, and I even saw two kids grabbing ducks from the lake and throwing them like they were baseballs back in the water! I felt sorry for the ducks!

Likoma has millions of baobab trees so it was really cool walking through the dirt roads lined up with baobab trees.

Close to my lodge the owner’s wife had a workshop that employs local people and they make crafts out of recyclable material so I went to check it out. The place reminded me of Shanga in Arusha, all the pieces were very beautiful, specially the chandeliers. 

One of the projects they work on is using bicycle wheels and old metal to make super cool lamps! The only down side of these kinds of shops is that there are always very expensive for my budget so I couldn’t contribute.

During my days walking around I met many kids on the streets but my most special memory is the one day I came back near the lodge and decided to quietly sit on the sand by where the fish were drying and observe the locals. Within a couple of minutes the kids had seen me and they came screaming my name, at one point I was surrounded by 15 children singing “Andrea, Andrea, Andrea” and dancing around me! It was the cutest thing I have ever seen! I loved it!
The children love pictures so I got out my go pro and took a selfie with all of them… Isn’t a moment like this more special than given a kid a balloon?

Village walks were definitely my favorite part of Likoma! It really allowed me to see how people from the island live.

The local bar

I absolutely love this picture! This train is made of 1Lchikub beer carton with plastic bottle tops as the wheels! 



Sunset at the mango drift was spectacular every day! The sky turned all kinds of colors and the bright orange sun set right in front of us.

My 5 days in Likoma were so nice, it really did make up for all the Ilala drama!